Because the spiciness of jalapeños varies from chile to chile, we try to control the heat by removing the ribs and seeds (the source of most of the heat) from those chiles that are cooked in the rice. Use an ovensafe pot about 12 inches in diameter so that the rice cooks evenly and in the time indicated. The pot’s depth is less important than its diameter; we’ve successfully used both a straight-sided sauté pan and a Dutch oven. Whichever type of pot you use, it should have a tight-fitting, ovensafe lid. Vegetable broth can be substituted for chicken broth.

Natural cocoa powder will work in this recipe, but we found that Dutch-processed yields the best chocolate flavor. Espresso powder provides complexity, but instant coffee can be substituted in a pinch. The dough can be wrapped tightly in plastic wrap and stored in the refrigerator for up to three days or in the freezer for up to two weeks. Defrost frozen dough in the refrigerator overnight, then let stand at room temperature until firm yet malleable, about 30 minutes. The cookies are refined enough to serve plain, but a dusting of sifted confectioners’ sugar or chocolate glaze is a nice touch. Baked cookies can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to three days but should be dusted with sugar or glazed the day they are served.

The test kitchen prefers the hearty strands of egg-enriched fettuccine usually sold in 12-ounce boxes. We found that you need to salt the water used to cook the pasta and vegetables quite heavily to make sure they emerge nicely seasoned.

The longer you let the zest and juice mixture steep, the more intensely citrusy your margaritas will be. We recommend steeping for the full 24 hours, although the margaritas will still be great if the mixture is steeped for the minimum four hours. If you’re in a rush and need to serve the drinks immediately, omit the zest and skip the steeping process altogether. We suggest using reposado (“rested”) tequila, which is made from 100 percent blue agave and aged for between two and 12 months. Tasters liked its mellow flavor and thought it blended perfectly with the other ingredients.

If the egg whites to be whipped are not at room temperature, set them in a pan placed in hot tap water and stir them until they are tepid. Coconut is very nice as a variation for this cake. Add 2/3 to 1 cup lightly packed sweetened flaked coconut, lightly chopped, to the batter before folding in the egg whites.

For a smooth pudding, it is important to pass the pudding through a fine-mesh strainer in order to remove any bits of cooked egg.

If you make the caramel sauce ahead, reheat it in the microwave or a small saucepan over low heat until warm and fluid. When the hot cream mixture is added in step 3, the hot sugar syrup will bubble vigorously (and dangerously), so don’t use a smaller saucepan.

This soup uses store-bought low-sodium chicken broth doctored with vegetables and herbs to brighten its flavor. Once completed, the soup is served immediately.

This recipe was published in our cookbook The Best Light Recipe.

Per 1 1/2-cup serving:
Cal 120; Fat 1.5 g; Sat fat 0 g; Chol 0 mg; Carb 22 g; Protein 6 g; Fiber 5 g; Sodium 930 mg

More challenging to cook properly than a regular thin frittata, a thick, hearty frittata often ends up dry, overstuffed, and overcooked.

An ovensafe nonstick 12-inch skillet is a must for this recipe and the variations that are linked. Because broilers vary so much in intensity, watch the frittata carefully as it cooks.

Campanelli is a frilly trumpet-shaped pasta. If you cannot find it, fusilli works well. Take care not to overreduce the vinegar, or it will become bitter.