If the egg whites to be whipped are not at room temperature, set them in a pan placed in hot tap water and stir them until they are tepid. Coconut is very nice as a variation for this cake. Add 2/3 to 1 cup lightly packed sweetened flaked coconut, lightly chopped, to the batter before folding in the egg whites.

ready in about an hour and a half; serves 12
You might need to buy:
  • granulated sugar
  • cake flour
  • baking soda
  • table salt
  • water
  • vegetable oil
  • vanilla extract
  • cream of tartar

The origin of the madeleine, the shell-shaped sponge cake eaten as a cookie, is disputed, although most food scholars believe it originated in the Lorraine city of Commercy. It traveled first to the court of Louis XV at Versailles and then on to Paris, gaining converts at each stop. Today, the pâtissiers of Commercy are still considered Frances premier makers of madeleines, and boxes of madeleines de Commercy are sold throughout the country. You will need a madeleine pan, made of tinned steel and with a dozen molds, to bake these little cakes.

ready in about 20 minutes; serves 12
You might need to buy:
  • eggs
  • granulated sugar
  • salt
  • vanilla extract
  • almond extract
  • grated lemon zest
  • and cooled