This garlic-fragrant dish is pretty healthy as it stands. You could make it slightly more so by halving or cutting out the wine; the lemon juice and zest add enough acid to the broth. And, of course, make that pound of noodles serve six, not four, people.

This main-course soup is so satisfying that you won’t notice that it has no meat except the breath of richness from pancetta. Vegetarians can cut out the pancetta and substitute water or vegetable broth for the chicken broth. Pureeing some of the beans and putting them back in the pot makes the soup feel even more substantial.